The African Queen

From Deans Lodge we travelled to Flatdogs Camp in South Luangwa and then to Livingstone and Victoria Falls.

On the way to Flatdogs the taxi had a broken fanbelt. We waited near a local shop while the driver was assisted by local people to modify the adjuster and fit a new (LONGER) fanbelt. After 2 hours, all was well and we arrived late in the afternoon.

The Safaris in the South Luangwa reserve were amazing; we saw 4 of the big 5, and loads of other animals and a couple of hundred bird species. Amazing! We had a tent by the river, 50 metres form crocodiles, in the evening Elephant and Hippos came into the camp to graze, very cool peering out at a Hippo a few feet from the tent door while he’s chomping on a pile of dry leaves under a tree.

After the 5 days on Safari (total of 40 hours) we left and caught a bus to Lusaka and the next day to Livingstone. The Zigzag B&B was very nice and friendly. The day after we arrived we went to the falls; the Zambians had taken most of the water for hydro electric so there was little water in the falls. But we had great views of the gorge and could see the scale of the whole thing.

We even walked 500 metres across the top of the dry cataract, amazing really, in the wet season you can’t go near the falls without a raincoat, and cameras get soaked.

Afterwards we walked into the hotel complex, Zambesi Sun and Royal Livingstone, a different world, 5 star tourist luxury! We found a deck with a bar by the Zambesi and took a beer, 3 times the price compared to in town. We chatted to the barman; he was very friendly and talkative. I asked him about life in Africa and why people are so happy. He said that life there was not easy and people were very aware that every day might be the last so they make the most of it.

As we left the hotel a group of local tribesmen were posing with guests in local dress, so we took Peggy’s “African Queen “picture.

That evening we took a sunset cruise on the Zambesi, magic.

We travelled by bus back to Lusaka and then to Lilongwe, arriving at 2.30 am. We were advised to stay in the bus until dawn at 5.00 because of the risk of mugging. (All the locals stayed as well.) And we eventually got to the Mufasa backpackers lodge at about 6, for a sleep and recovery.

We were there a couple of days and then left for the airport and London via Johannesburg. The flight was bumpy and as we approached Johannesburg there was a big flash and a bang, the left hand engine had been hit by lightning, with no problems fortunately. In the airport it was cold and draughty and we had a miserable 4 hours wait for the London flight.

Now we have been to the Isle of Man for 12 days, have spent some time in Cambridge seeing friends and Family and are spending 10 days in Belgium. We have tickets back to Africa and visas until the 30 July, so the adventure will continue.

Being in the UK and Belgium has been a shock to the system. Especially in the run up to Christmas!

There is so much consumerism, and obvious waste. The shops are selling all sorts of stuff, much at half price, Tesco’s has Chinese plastic toys and goods stacked up even by the front door.  We were at  the Huntingdon garden centre and the plants were gone, it was full of Christmas stuff, all sorts of ornaments, chocolate Santa’s, stuffed reindeer with woolly hats, speciality foods, you do not believe there is a credit crunch.

But people do not look happy, but we found that many looked tired, stressed, grey faced, and not at all happy. This is such a contrast to our African friends, smiling and cheerful, positive and happy looking every day.

It is very strange, when we are in Africa, there is very little to buy and we don’t miss shops.

In the UK, because the shops are there we feel that we “ought “to be buying this stuff.

 My reaction the UK has been very negative. We don’t want to be there to shop, the big cars and obvious expense is almost obscene. The weather is grey and the houses look small and unattractive.

Seeing all our family has been great, friends are still there, and pleased to see us. We are never sure what they really think but all appear to be positive to our adventures.

For my part, I have lost about 18 pounds weight, blood pressure is down and in good shape; I slept like a baby and felt relaxed and at ease with life. We have objectives now when we get back and are looking forward to life on the lakeshore

I am taking time and not being “impatient”, a new approach for me. We are both looking forward to going back to Mozambique in January; we have visas until 30 July.