Lake of a Thousand Stars

is what Livingstone called Lake Malawi, the third biggest lake in Africa, so wide you can’t see across it.

About 700 feet deep. It’s a large body of water and provides food and a means of transport for all the people living on its shores. Each morning we walk from our hut a few minutes and then down to the lake shore, fine white squeaky sand. Every day the lake is different depending on the wind and the light of the sun as it rises. The rocks have a white banding near the base and this takes on the colour of the light, some days pink, some days golden. We prefer the offshore winds and the lake surface is calm and still. Other times the lake has an onshore wind and then there can be a heavy surf running.

But the lake is as big as many seas, and also needs respect. We heard this week of a tragedy on the lake, a boat has sunk, it was carrying some 40 people and 16 women and children drowned, 3 missing.

He boat was probably designed to hold 12 or 15 people. No health and safety laws here.

But the lake also provides food for people, a fisherman has just come to the lodge carrying 3 enormous catfish.

This weekend there is a dancing competition in Mala Villages, many local villages sending groups to compete. Everyone in their Sunday best, the ladies brightly coloured outfits, sunglasses, some of them would look at home in London. Children of all sizes, with sweets, biscuits, fanta and coke.

Some little girls "adopted" Peggy, all wanting to hold her hand. From time to time they take a few dance steps, learning the traditional dances at an early age. All so happy to have a photograph taken and see themselves for a few seconds in the camera screen.

After we returned from Mala we sat on the beach with a beer each, reading and watching two pairs of African Fish Eagles patrolling the lake looking for a meal. And another evening by a fire, under the 1000 stars.